Myanmar Festivals (or) When the Moon is Full, it’s Festival Time

The Myanmar People are a hard-working people. But when festival time rolls around, they are also a hard-playing people.

Whenever the moon waxes full, there is an all-night celebration. Its nature varies from season to season: frivolity during the water dousing of the New Year in April, solemnity as Buddhist Lent begins in July, and joyousness during the October Festival of Light.

Thingyan: The Changing Over

The year’s biggest party is the Thingyan festival in the month of Tagu (March / April). This is when the Myanmar People celebrate their New Year. For three or four days (the length of the celebration is determined annually by ponnas, or Brahmin astrologers), farm labor, business and government come to a virtual standstill.

Thingyan is best known as the “water throwing festival.” The old year must be washed away and the New Year anointed with water. No one, Myanmar people or foreign visitor, is safe from the deluges which seem to appear from nowhere out of the hot blue sky. From the sweet-smiling maiden carrying her water pot on her head to the skinny street cleaner laboring with his bucket, everyone is a potential prankster who might at any moment drench you from head to toe. For those without buckets or pots, water pumps and hoses are set up everywhere at roadside stalls.

Thingyan begins when Thagyamin, king of the nats, descends to earth to bring blessings for the New Year. He also carries two books with him: one bound in gold to record the names of people who have been well behaved in the past year, and one bound in dog skin to write the names of the naughty ones.

Thagyamin comes riding a winged golden horse and bearing a water jar, symbolic of peace and prosperity in Myanmar in the coming year. Every house greets him with flowers and palm leaves at their front doors.

During Thingyan, all revelers find a quiet moment each day to make offerings at pagodas and at the homes of their elders. Buddha images are given a thorough washing on this holiday by devout elderly women.

In medieval times, Thingyan was observed with a public hair-washing by the Myanmar king, a ritual purification.

Kason: The day of Buddha

Kason (April / May) is a month of anticipation, for the annual monsoon could break at any time. On the full moon day, the birth, enlightenment and death of the Buddha are celebrated. Citizens join in a procession of musicians and dancers to the local pagoda. There, they pour scented water not over each other, but over the roots of the sacred Bodhi Tree, under which the Buddha gained enlightenment.

In addition to this annual occasion, Buddha Day observances are held once a month at local temples on the day of the new moon.

Nayon: The Scriptures Exam

During the full moon day of Nayon (May / June), after the rains have at long last begun and the hot dry months are at an end, Myanmar students are tested on their knowledge of the Tripitaka, the Buddhist scriptures. Sayadaws (abbot) lecture before large crowds of people, schools operated by monasteries are opened to the public, and the best scholars exhibit their knowledge and win public acclaim.

Waso: The Beginning of Lent

For the next three months, the country will be soaked in water, as the monsoons gain strength. This is the beginning of the Buddhist Lent season. On Dhammasetkya, the full moon day of Waso (June / July), the people of Myanmar celebrate the Buddha’s conception, his renunciation of worldly goods, and his first sermon after enlightenment. A majority of Shin-pyus are staged at this time, and full ordination of those who wish to devote their lives to the Sangha takes place.

During the following three months, all members of the Sangha go into deep retreat for study and mediation. Monks are not permitted to travel, and all devout Buddhist enter a period of fasting.

Wagaung: The ‘Draw-a-Lot’ Festival

Since no marriage or other secular celebration is permitted during the Lenten season, the full moon of Wagaung (July / August) is observed as a festival of food offering. This is a purely religious time for merit-making. The name of each member of the local Sangha is written on a piece of paper, which is then rolled up and deposited in a large basket. A representative from each household of the community draws a paper from the basket, and the next day elaborately feasts the pongyi named on the paper he has chosen. One layman will draw a paper containing the name of the Gautama Buddha. He is the most fortunate of all, for he will have the opportunity to host of the Buddha.

Tawthalin: The Boat Racing Festival

By the time of Tawthalin (August/September). Myanmar’s rivers are full and flowing majestically. Throughout the land, boat races are held in rivers and lakes. At Inle Lake, the Phaung Daw U Festival is held at this month or next, with leg-rowing competitions and the voyage of a re-created royal Karaweik barge.

Thadingyut: The Festival of Light

Buddhist Lent comes to an end with the long awaited arrival of the full moon of Thadingyut (September / October), indicating the approach of clear skies and pleasant temperatures of the cool season.

On this full moon night, the Myanmar people celebrate the descent of the Buddha and his followers to earth from Tavatimsa heaven where, according to legend, he traveled to preach the doctrine to his mother. Just as the Buddha’s return to this plane was illuminated by his radiance, millions of candles and lamps now light up monasteries, pagoda, houses, even trees. Everyone tries to stay awake until dawn, and an air of joyousness pervades the country. Especially happy are engaged couples, who can marry now that the taboo of the Lenten season is over.

Thazaungmone: The Weaving Festival

In the month of Tazaungmone (October / November), the Weaving Festival is held. Unmarried girls sit under the full moon in the pagoda grounds, engaged in weaving competitions as they make new robes for the monks. In the early morning hours, their finished products will be ceremoniously presented to the Pongyis in the nearby kyaung (monastery).

Nadaw: The Month of Nat Festival

During Nadaw (November / December), most nat festivals take place. When the full moon arrives, nearly every village dedicates a celebration to the spirit world.

National or regional nat festivals, however, are held in other months over a period of several days before, during and after the full moon. Among the most important are the Mount Popa Festivals in Nayon (May / June), the Taungbyon Festival north of Mandalay in Wagaung (July / August), the Manao Festival in Myitkyina in Pyatho (December / January), and the Shan Festival in Kyaukme in Tabaung (February/March).

Pyatho: The Month of Temple Festivals

Pyatho (December / January) formerly was a time when Myanmar people royalty displayed its strength with military parades. Nowadays, however, this time is reserved mostly for local pagoda festivals.

These local festivals are religious affairs, with gifts presented to monks and offerings made for temple upkeep. But even moreso, they are occasions for merrymaking lasting three or more days. A wide-ranging bazaar, boat and pony races, magic acts and side shows, and evening pwe performances are common activities. The full assortment of Myanmar culinary delicacies are offered.

A few major temple festivals are held in Pyatho. The Ananda Temple festival in Bagan falls at this time, and the Shwedagon Pagoda festival in Yangon is held either Pyatho or in Tabaung (February / March). Other important festivals are at Pathein’s Whwemokhpaw Pagoda in Kason (April / May), Pegu’s Shwemawdaw Pagoda in Tazaungmone (October / November), Nyaung U’s Shwezigon Pagoda in Nadaw (November / December), and Prome’s Shwenattaung Pagoda in Tabaung (February / March). These nationally known celebrations can last as long as four weeks.

Tabodwe: The Harvest Festival

When the month of Tabodwe (January / February) arrives, it is time to harvest the paddy and celebrate the harvest festival. As in every land where farming is the mainstay of the population, this is a time of joy. After the first harvest is offered to the monastery, elaborate meals are prepared, and Myanmar women have a chance to show offer their cooking prowess to neighbors and monks. The celebration is named Htamane after a food offering of rice, sesame, peanuts, ginger and coconut fixed at this time.

Tabaung: The Month of Serenity

Tabaung (February / March), the last month of the Myanmar year, is a time of romance and quiet thoughts. On the full moon day, Myanmar people travel to tranquil lakes or rivers, where they can relax under the stars and spend the evening playing music, singing and reciting poetry. It is a fitting close to the year, a display of the simple joys of life by a people well off the main roads of Western influence.